balenciaga aw 13
Alexander Wang’s first collection as Creative Director of Balenciaga after the departure of Nicolas Ghesquière “Cristobal’s shapes translated into relatable pieces — shirting, knitwear, coats and pants.” last year has stayed true to the heritage and hallmarks of the revered brand. Wang buried himself in the archive’s of the label, and focused on staples like curved hems, sculptural silhouettes and expanding his usual vision to show that he can effectively separate his work for his own label and his work for Balenciaga, something that he has demonstrated well with this collection. Vogue.co.uk has described the collection as “more Balenciaga than Alexander Wang”, stating that he has done the right thing in letting the archives and rich history of the brand do the talking, more so than using his own trademarks.
I’m a huge fan of the minimal black and white bags that Wang sent down the runway to accompany the looks, as well as the silver hardware that accessorised the regal dresses and sculpted coats. Wang’s inspiration for the collection was “Dynamic movement, and pushing the archives forward to create a full wardrobe, Cristobal’s shapes translated into relatable pieces — shirting, knitwear, coats and pants.”
Wang paid homage to Ghesquière, in a way, too, by using high-tech fabrics throughout the collection – something that Ghesquière was renowned for. The lacy trousers were made by by cementing velvet to foam, then laser cutting and re-embroidering it and the curved-hem skirt that looked like cracked leather? That was actually made of mohair that had been manipulated to within an inch of it’s life.
This first collection is everything it should be – covetable and cautious.
Images from vogue.co.uk.